Sunday, October 20, 2019

Heading Back to Iceland

     We've only been home a few hours, and I'm already ready to head back to Iceland.  Part of it is the amazing and ever-changing landscapes of that incredible country, but another big part is the family time we had there.  But, as Drew said, even though he loved the trip, he was also excited to be back in his own bedroom, which is likely bigger than the entire space the six of us lived in for just over a week.  It may also be the mountain of laundry, unopened mail, and nagging to-do list of real life that make on-boarding back to reality so tough to do.  Either way, I thought I'd do one last post with some general thoughts about the Land of Fire and Ice.
     
Top Five Sights:


 1.  Seeing the Northern Lights  
This is not my photo (it will likely be a couple of weeks till I get my digital pics uploaded as we have a crazy couple of weeks ahead), but this is exactly what it was like...faint neon green lights that danced over the ocean just to the north of us.  We want to try and see them again some day.  Pictures of them I found during my research for our trip looked simply incredible, but you cannot precisely predict when they will show.  You have to have perfect conditions all happen at the right moment...solar flares, no clouds, little to no light pollution, etc. I'd love another chance to see them really fire up and dance in a range of colors across the night sky.  On the way home, our flight with Icelandair even had mock northern lights shining above the overhead bins.  



2.  Yoda Cave  
I stumbled across this landmark during my online research for Iceland, and I knew my Star Wars loving crew would enjoy it.  The landmark was not too hard to access, and it really was a neat place to explore. However, the hike around this area was fun too.  The ocean was just out in front of us, the weather was great that day, and the kids all climbed really high up the side of the mountain, with Drew even making it to the top.

 3.  Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon  
This amazing canyon was not only a nice, short little hike, but watching the dark turquoise waters rush beneath us, knowing that over centuries they carved out this ancient canyon cast a spell over me.  Maybe it was the fact it had been my screen saver at work for the last few weeks, or maybe the canyon is truly magical.  Either way, I could have stayed there and looked at it for hours on end.  I just felt so peaceful there among the water and rocks.
 4.  Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon & Diamond Beach   
I mean, we touched and drank 1,000 year old water from a glacier!  Getting there just before closing, catching the last few tickets on the last boat of the day, being there at sunset, finding pieces of the glaciers on the black sand beach nearby...it was all just so magical!


5.  Amazing Waterfalls  
As I said in an earlier blog post, there are literally waterfalls everywhere you look in Iceland...over 10,000  in fact, and those are just the ones big enough to be named.  Water has always been soothing to me, so the sights and sounds of rushing water all around us was just incredible.  Again, I could have stayed and stared at each one for hours.






      Aside from the nature all around us and the cool hikes we took, just being in another country was also very fun.  Here are our top five fun moments that were not necessarily part of the amazing landscape:

1.  Icelandic Sheep
There are literally everywhere!  Some right by the road, many way up in the hillsides, and even lots inside town limits.  We were constantly impressed by where we'd see a group of them pop up.  Icelanders use their meat for food and the wool to make much needed warm items for the biter cold.  Wool also dries quickly, so it's the perfect material for those cold and chilly conditions.  I bought a wool winter headband with a traditional woven Icelandic pattern for my souvenir.  Farms way out in the most remote areas amazed us and thinking about caring for all those sheep during the upcoming harsh winter seems daunting.

2.  Icelandic Food
Hot. Dogs.  I don't really need to say more.  Yes, we loved the fresh caught fish and chips, seafood chowder, lamb dinner, and lamb stew, but the hot dogs were game changers.  Knowing that gas station food is not only OK but a staple of the Icelandic way of life was also very fun to experience.  I ate 5 hot dogs last week, and could have easily wolfed down two or three more.
3.  Amazing Campgrounds
America could really learn a thing or two about cool campgrounds from Iceland.  Nearly every single town has one, and almost all of them have cool community spaces for cooking, doing dishes, and hanging out (lots with free WiFi).  Bathrooms and showers were always clean, and the fees were only charged for adults...all kids camp free and most had cool playgrounds and activities for the kids too even in the fall/winter.  Mike and I hope to return in the summer some day and experience even more at these cool campgrounds. 


4.  Icelandic Candy & Treats
Shopping for all foods and drinks in Iceland was an adventure, but buying candy was it's own wild ride.  At the stop where we got this loot, the lady at the register said Icelanders would buy this much for one person alone.  They love their candy!  Most of it contains some sort of black licorice, which I thought I totally hated, but when it's covered with chocolate or filled with caramel or coconut, you just can't get enough.  The sodas and bakery treats were fun too.  It's just neat to try foods from other cultures.  Most of the time we hit the jackpot and even went back for seconds of somethings like the yummy quick breakfast treats we found and bought two more times.  Only a few times did we regret our choices, like when Jack got two completely licorice gummy candies that he spit right out or when Livy tried something she hoped was lemonade only to find out it was grapefruit soda.  Fun with food, indeed!


















 5.  Icelandic Churches
About 80% of Icelanders are members of the Lutheran State Church.  Every small town, and even lots of places that seemed way out in the middle of nowhere had a church or two.  My favorite where the cute little red roofed white buildings out by the ocean or in the middle of a farm field.  Some were very tiny...not able to hold more than twenty or thirty parishioners.  The grass covered churches were neat too.  There are several books dedicated to the churches of Iceland and their history. 


Bonus #6:  Community Centers
Something we love about our town is the sense of community.  You could feel that in all the small towns and cities around Iceland.  Their community centers held practices and meetings, saw gatherings of friends both young and old, and provided great opportunities for their residents.  Honestly, we also loved the idea of swimming outside in the winter!




     To say our week in Iceland was amazing is simply an understatement.  We loved every single moment!  Did we argue at times?  You bet...we were six people crammed in less than 200 square feet for over a week.  We were also in a foreign land, trying to interpret road signs, see as much as possible, and learn about the culture along the way.  Did the kids get engulfed in screen time while we drove the Ring Road and not look out the windows at the ever-changing landscape as much as we would have liked?  You bet!  But even with the couple of quarrels and moments that they said were "boring," we saw more amazing stuff than we could ever have imagined, we played games, read books, and snuggled watching movies before bedtime.  We hiked, swam, drank hot chocolate to warm up, and marveled at nature together.  And, most importantly, we're already dreaming up our next adventure together.  Thanks for coming along to Iceland with us!  Bless!

Saturday, October 19, 2019

Happiness is a Way of Travel, Not a Destination

     Well, we made it to the last day of our magical trip to Iceland.  It's been an absolutely wonderful journey to the Land of Fire and Ice, and I think all of us are a bit sad to leave.  Well, Nick is pumped to see the dogs again, and Mike is looking forward to building a fire and watching American football, both things you cannot do easily in Iceland.  All of us are ready for a good, long, hot shower too.
     When leaving towns in Iceland, this is always the sign you see, letting you know that you are indeed leaving the town limits.  It was sad to see our last one this morning as we headed to the airport.

     We got packed up and ate our last breakfast of speed crepes (warm tortillas covered in Nutella and banana slices) very quickly this morning, so we had some time to explore the local town before we headed to the car rental place to return Sharky.  
     Keflavík probably gets more attention for being just a car rental spot and home of the main Icelandic airport, but it actually had a nice downtown with brightly colored houses, a cute little harbor, and a giant's cave.  Giants, ogres, trolls, and sprites are all part of Icelandic legends, so visiting the rustic cave home of Giganta the giant before we headed to the airport was a fun little stop.


These are stacked stones that represent giants, said to protect the harbor.




Drew finally found a door much bigger than him!



Giganta, the giant



     Driving past the moss covered volcanic rocks one last time, I had to get a couple of pics.  The incredible geology surrounding us in different ways, the ever-changing landscapes, the water at every twist and turn, some from the ocean and others from the crystal clear creeks and streams that jogged down from the mountains... every view in Iceland has been spectacular.  We will be back in America in a few hours, and home again to Indiana shortly after that.  It's been a great trip...Drew even said it was his favorite family vacation to date.  Pretty good to hear that from the guy who picked this location.  We hope it helped further plant the seed of loving to travel in all our kids.  We always try to have fun, no mater where we are, but we like exploring this wonderful world of ours as much as we can.  As the saying on the side of our camper said, "Happiness is a way of travel, not a destination."  Goodbye Iceland or "Bless!"  That's how they say goodbye in Icelandic....pretty cool, huh?!








Friday, October 18, 2019

Exploring Reykjavik

     After a very nice, calm and slow-moving moring, where I sat with coffee near a black sand beach and enjoyed every minute, we finally left camp late in the morning and headed to the big city.
     
     Reykjavik is a very neat city, but the power struggle between old and new is very evident right as you arrive.  Huge cranes and construction crews are working on new structures down by the Old Harbor.  Colorful, tiny old houses sit next to stark, very modern high-rise apartment buildings.  Driving the not-so-big, but much-bigger-than-most-cars Sharky around and trying to find a parking spot was it's own little adventure.  
     We ate a quick little lunch in the RV before taking off around noon to explore.  First, we checked out the harbor area, complete with a couple of cool art installations like the Lava Cone and Sun Voyager.  




      After the Sun Voyager stop, we walked over to the Harpa Opera House.   The Q-bert like structure of the building is amazing, complete with colored panes of glass that throw neat rainbow reflections in front of the building.  When we walked past later in the evening, the windows were filled with ever-changing lights that we stood and watched for a bit too.
  



Nick and Livy singing opera outside Harpa Opera House.


     Next, we headed into the Old Harbor area to look at all the massive ships and find the start of the old residential area.  Mike and Nick recreated a statue of two men at sea, and we read some neat informational boards about Iceland's relationship with several other European countries.  Mike has a thing for ships, so he loved checking out the Old Harbor. 

Drew thought the name of this street was pretty funny!





     After leaving the harbor, we stumbled upon Laugavegur, a really neat street filled with shops, bars, and restaurants.  Motor traffic is not allowed in this part of the city, so we were easily able to wander and find neat sights like the rainbow road.  We did some shopping for souvenirs, and headed up town to find the Hallgrimskirja Church, a very iconic landmark in the heart of the city.  The church is amazing on its own, but most days you can climb the bell tower for a 360 view of the city.  However, there was a funeral at Hallgrimskirja today, so we just enjoyed the Leif Erikson statue and outside of the cathedral instead. 
Livy tried out the public "water closet"

Outdoor seating at a local restaurant,
which comes with blankets to keep you warm.



Leif Erikson, a famous Icelandic viking





     Just outside the church grounds, an amazing smell pulled us to find a cute little Belgium waffle truck.  I told the kids all about my travels there over 20 years ago when I back-packed across Europe and insisted we try some to see if they were as good as I remembered.  The waffles tasted just the same, and I almost went back for ten more to go!  They are sweet without any syrup or extra stuff (although you can order them with a variety of toppings).  What a yummy little find!





    











     We headed back down Laugavegur to pick up our remaining Iceland souvenirs, and found a pizza place for dinner.  Apparently, Icelanders also love their pizza...it's easy to find on just about every street corner in Reykjavik and in most small towns.  We also took some silly pictures along the way of trolls, sprites, and other fun stuff we saw downtown.






















          Turns out that we walked over 5 miles today in the capital city, just trying to take it all in and absorb the Reykjavik vibe.  We then drove about half an hour to our camping spot for the night.  We are only about 20 minutes from the airport, so we're planning to turn in early tonight, pack like crazy tomorrow, and head to the rental place with just enough time to grab one last Icelandic hot dog and catch our flight.  I'm too sad to even think about leaving, so I'll ignore the end of this amazing trip for now and just focus on this lovely view of Reykjavik over the water.